By turning the adjustment wheel, you can set prongs anywhere from 2.5 - 15mm high. This video is part of the Quality Assurance Benchmarks (QAB) of jewelry manufacturing developed by GIA. Keep the setting at a slight angle because you want only the tips of the jaws touching the metal. It is critical that you do not squeeze the lever while you are making the adjustments. One of my favorite. In addition, it only takes one hand to work these pliers. Using a pair of chain nose pliers make sure the jaws are prepped and smooth to avoid leaving tool marks. Press the h… When you have situated it, make sure it is resting on all of the pre-notched grooves in the prongs and the stone itself is lying flat. Remember SEF prefix items for faceted cuts and SEC prefix items for cabochons. Using tweezers or fine-tipped pliers, place the stone between the prongs. Place the working face on the tip and force the metal downward onto the stone. Yes, the SEF and SEC series both have prongs, but there are differences as well. Now you will start modifying the prongs so the stone can be reset lower. Prong settings let lots of light into a faceted stone so it can really sparkle for all it's worth--but newer metalsmiths may not be ready for this type of setting, as many of my students have made Add color, sparkle and style to your gemstone jewelry with this free earring tutorial and Sam Patania's easy prong … The prongs should snap into place along the girdle. Once the stone is set, the plastic is heated up again and removed. For your jewelry to look good and the gems to stay secure, you must learn to set your stones correctly. Be sure to choose the right type of setting for your stone cut. The collet, showing the stone size in relation to the claws. The prongs must have room to bend over the curvature of the stone to grip it in place. Learn how to start prong setting your own loose gemstones in this step-by-step guide. Of course, the Orbit prong pendant design will fit about any size or shaped stone. Check and adjust for contact, symmetry, and alignment of the hefty prongs. The claw pusher is fitted into a mushroom graver handle. If you're new to gems, you'll need to know these terms in a minute. On the left, I've added a close-up of a pre-notched prong. First, push on one side of the V, then the other. Our SEF series of prong settings are designed for this type of cut. We have sterling silver prong settings in our inventory! The Diamond Pro 2,404 views. The girdle of the stone should nest right into the prong notch. Learn more about the art of stone setting, the different types of stone setting and. Open and close the prongs several times to get used to them. To ensure a firmer hold on the pendant, use a ring clamp. Set the stone aside in a safe place. How To Set A Stone In A Prong Ring There are many ways to set a round stone in a simple 4 prong […] How To Set A Stone In A Ring Because of its use in engagement rings, prong setting is familiar […] How To Make A Photo Frame With Newspaper Steps. Keep doing that until all of the prongs have been pushed down. This gives you a good insight into the technical teaching methodology. You don’t want to accidentally snap your prongs! Adjust spacing and location of the prongs carefully. That allows you to hold onto your setting while adjusting the jaws to the width you need. This picture shows the notch that is cut to the correct depth. Center the bezel-set stone over the drilled hole and press it down firmly, wiggling it slightly until the clay grabs and the bezel won't move. Pave setting uses small stones to cover the surface of a piece of jewellery. Plus, less strength is needed because the jaws do all the work. Now, using the jeweler's pliers, bend the tips of the prongs so they cover part of the gem and lock it in place. The SEC series is specially made for cabochons, with low-walled sides that show off as much of the stone as possible. I use a 2 mm 60° setting burr for this job, because the stones are 3 mm in diameter.Theoretically, a 3 mm setting burr would be easier because all four claws can be cut at once, rather than using a 2 mm burr and cutting the claws one at a time.However, in practice, claws cut with a big burr tend to be over cut, and once cut, leave no room for adjustment.With a slightly smaller burr than the diameter of the stone, one can go back and do some adjustments should the stone not be level. The illustration below shows a faceted stone. Your stone should be secured so it does not wiggle or twist at all. The SEF series has notches to hold the stone's girdle in place and deep baskets for maximum light refraction. Here all three stones are fitted and are all the same height and also level. Placing your stone inside the 90-degree prongs, take your prong pusher and push them right against the stone, slowly but with a little force. 5:55 . See more ideas about jewelry techniques, jewelry tutorials, jewelry making. Because of the emerald facets, your stone could also be set in a regular frame (which would be my choice, if adding the set stone as the focal point on a bracelet). I start with the blank ring.This ring is 4.5 mm wide and the stones that are going to be fitted are 3 mm in diameter. A prong pusher is used for this setting, but any flat-ended pusher is also appropriate. How to: 6 Prong Marquis Stone Setting - Duration: 5:55. To lock the gem in place, position the setting so that one prong lies against the shorter of the pliers' jaws, and the top of the prong directly opposite is under the longer jaw. I have a free tutorial on how to make one of these modified setting pliers for yourself here. I'm really impressed with Easy Mount Gem Set Pliers stone setting pliers. Tighten one prong slightly then move to … Each prong is then pressed over the stone part way, the stone is checked to be certain it is level, and the prongs are set down firmly onto the stone. Metal Clay Syringe Settings: Syringe Bezels and Prong Settings. I make my own brass pushers out of 3 mm brass rod. Use minimal pressure when setting. This will take some practice. More information on our Copyright and Privacy Policy, Keep up to date with the latest metalsmithing news and release of new jewelry making tutorials. Illusion Settings: This type of stone setting is used to visually exaggerate the appearance of a small stone. I'll get into the details in a moment, but first, let's go over some stone basics. Stuller, Inc. 161,715 views. Here the first stone is fitted into the claws.Note that the table of the stone is about the same height as the top of the claws. Stones are said to be "calibrated" when they are precisely cut to even diameters such as 4mm, 6mm or 8mm with a traditional shape (round, oval, etc) and a standard crown and pavilion height. Alternatively, use metal clay paste to attach the bezel-set stone over the hole. Click the link to receive your free PDF version of Stone Setting Tutorial - Prong Settings which will be emailed to you within 4 - 12 hours. In my opinion, prongs should not be used on the back side of a stone because small, sharp prongs can easily get caught in fabric or knit, thus pulling away from the stone (resulting in a lost stone) or jutting out and irritating the skin. Check out our prong set a stone selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Next, proceed to ovals and other fancy shapes. Got questions? spherical) bur to cut notches in each prong. Using prongs instead of a bezel can often let more of the stone show, making it truly the centerpiece of your design. You can use several methods to push the prong down onto the stone. This picture is posed showing the brass pusher and the angle of force.Before force is applied, consciously check to see that your pusher is firmly on the claw and also at the correct angle, to avoid slipping off. It is good practice to make your own pushers, because it allows you to make a pusher for a particular job.Because the pusher was made for that job, the work is finished off more quickly and neater, rather that struggling with a pusher that it to big or too small. How to set gemstones in jewelry are shown in these step by step setting tutorials covering several stone setting techniques Using very slight pressure, push down with your thumb on the setting. I first cut one side of the claw so that a notch forms. Do not deform the shape of the pendant. Align and square the stone before the prongs fit snugly. Not too deep, because otherwise the claw will be weakened.And not too shallow, otherwise the girdle of the stone won't lock into the notch.This is the part that takes a bit of practice. Try pushing the prongs in a north, south, east and west order to avoid putting too much pressure on one side of the stone. All There is to Know About Pear Shape Diamonds - Duration: 1:52. Using tweezers or fine-tipped pliers, place the stone between the prongs. Prefabricated cabochon settings work best with low dome cabs in calibrated sizes. A lot of my tutorials involve prong (claw) settings, so I made this free setting tutorial as an overview to help my students practice setting skills and complete their projects more easily.This free tutorial follows the same format as all my other free and premium tutorials. In this example I will be setting diamond simulants in a silver ring. When you have situated it, make sure it is resting on all of the pre-notched grooves in the prongs and the stone itself is lying flat. Included are 4 and 6 prong settings, faceted and cabochon settings, ovals, rounds and even strip settings. This tutorial covers stone vocabulary and the basics to prong set both faceted stone and cabochon cuts. Before starting to set a gemstone in a precut setting, you need to make sure you have a gemstone that is compatible with the settings: Use only machine cut or diamond cut gemstones and diamonds in precut settings to avoid the issues created by a stone that is cut out of proportion. Stone Removal. Hi Kevin, your stone sounds very pretty and easy to set! The tips of each prong are hardened and burnished with a burnisher or a beading tool. Squeeze the lever to close your first prong. Feb 4, 2018 - Explore Christine Elaine's board "Stone Setting ~ Tutorials", followed by 4900 people on Pinterest. The pliers work great on both pre-notched facet stone settings and un-notched cabochon settings, but we will use a faceted stone in the example that follows. Repeat this step with an adjacent prong, for a four prong setting, and this will allow you to slide the stone out of the setting. On the right-hand side of the illustration is the basic "anatomy" vocabulary for a faceted stone. There are many ways to set a round stone in a simple 4 prong setting, I am going to show you the most common using simple bench tools. It may be necessary for you, when setting, to pull the prongs out slightly, to seat the gemstone into the setting. Tighten the prong tips with a prong pusher. We'd love to hear from you. The prongs can be bent downward to hold a stone in place. Bezel Set Setting (How to Set Diamond in a Bezel): After a hole is opened for a diamond, it is a form of setting applied by placing the stone suitable for that slot and covering the marginal parts of the stone. Easy Mount Gem Set Pliers are made to close prongs with a parallel motion, which gives you more control of the pliers. I'm a huge fan of this tool! Divide it in half. Be careful not to slip the pusher out of position when setting. Take out a sheet of newspaper. When you pick up the setting, the gem should be set so its top is level, and it should not be easy to move. I use my shop made setting pliers to bend each individual claw back about as far as is shown. Learn to incorporate precious beauties into your work with these 10 stone setting ideas. Learn how to set stones in prong settings! Use a prong pusher with a coarse face (to prevent slipping) to finish the job. Let's start by taking a look at the tools I'll be using. Setting the stone in this manner limits the amount of pressure applied to the fragile tips of the stone. The reason why it is called plastering is that it keeps the stone from sliding around the edges of the stone. Set the stone Insert the stone and push the tips of the prongs over the stone. Practice first! All the claws are cut in this manner. One can see the girdle of the stone will hook under the top lip of the notch. Deep cut cabs with high side walls may be difficult to secure. Trial fit your stone by placing it into the head. Fancy cuts or stones with unusual proportions will need custom fabricated settings. By using this site, you agree to our updated, How to Prong Set Stones: A Step by Step Guide, Top 3 Reasons Jewelry Supply Customers Refer Halstead, What Does Gold-Filled Mean - 7 Things You May Not Know. If you want to mount a 5 mm stone, you order a 5 mm pendant. The stones don't quite fit in between the claws yet.The stone diameter is 3 mm and I am using a coloured stone to give a better visual contrast against the silver metal. As you can see in the illustration above, the culet of a faceted gem would protrude from the bottom of an SEC cabochon setting. For your second prong close the one that sits opposite from it. The first thing you must do when using a precut setting is ensure that the setting is the same millimeter size as the gemstone. We will be describing the process required to set a stone in a series 283 V prong Marquis setting. or select other projects from Jewelry Making Tutorials List. When doing repair work it is best to remove all stones from their settings. Adding Diamonds to your Silver Jewelry Collection. Afterwards the ring is polished in the normal manner. Then, try deep, “belly cut” rounds. You can use a prong pusher to gently roll the metal over the stone in the same manner you would push a bezel down. This video is part of the Quality Assurance Benchmarks (QAB) of jewelry manufacturing developed by GIA. Tip: Tip: Use a small piece of wax on the end of a q-tip or toothpick to help maneuver the stone. Measure the diameter of th… This will also help to secure the stone. It is better to push a little form one side and then push a little from the other side and the a bit more on the first side. Use a pusher to gently push the prongs over the top of the faceted stone, being careful not to mark the stone or bend one prong more than others causing the stone to sit off centre. Pave Settings: The word pave originates from the French meaning paved. The jaws are made to move only 1mm at a time, alleviating the possibility of damaging your stone. In our next video we show you how to set a 10mm round cubic zirconia into a 10mm round pre-notched ring setting. While holding the tool in your palm, use your thumb and forefinger to adjust the setting until it is resting with the lower jaw on the bottom of the setting and the top jaw on a prong. Make sure the stone level in the setting before you start to set the stone. The setting burr leaves a bit of swarf on each prong and this needs to be removed with a scriber or a flat graver. Although tiny gems are simple, they pose their own challenges simply due to … This content is the intellectual property of Hans Meevis. The name explains basically how the stone is set into the setting. We recommend working your way around the setting by pushing opposite prongs, adjusting a little bit each time to make sure that there is even pressure across the top of the stone and that the stone is held nice and secure. Our cab settings are not pre-notched since cabs do not have facets nor girdles. how to set a large gemstone in a four-prong gold ring setting. Stone Setting: Prongs I’ll admit that I love prong settings. Step Six: Set your stone. If you have any questions or wish to be notified of any new tutorials that are posted, email me. Step 2. Prong settings have small tines that extend upward from a base. Shop for gemstone settings and loose CZs and learn more about setting stones at Halstead today! To set oval faceted stones in prongs, I use a round (a.k.a. It keeps your fingers out of the way so you can see what you're doing and the wax wipes right off the table of the gemstone. Now the claws are pushed over the stones.First the one side and then the other side of a stone.It is better to push a little form one side and then push a little from the other side and the a bit more on the first side. Here's a photo of the proper way to hold the tool in your palm so your thumb can reach the adjustment wheel: We've tested out these pliers with a multitude of prong settings and have broken down the three easy steps to setting a stone. Copyright © 1997-2020 Halstead Bead, Inc. All Rights Reserved. I melt a layer of bees wax to hold them in place. Here all three stones are fitted and are all the same height and also level.At first this process can be a bit frustrating for a beginner, particularly getting them all the same height.With practice though, it becomes easier and the bottom line in all jewelry making is practice, practice and more practice. These are the most commonly used stones in jewelry making and we have setting findings available to fit a broad range of options. Tip: Use a small piece of wax on the end of a q-tip or toothpick to help maneuver the stone. First the one side and then the other side of a stone. For this job you will need the following tools. Moreover, the prongs would be difficult to secure around the girdle and table of the stone without notches to accommodate the faceted shape. It keeps your fingers out of the way so you can see what you're doing and the wax wipes … Because of its use in engagement rings, prong setting is familiar to almost . Emails only, please. Some setters prefer a Hart bur, and while this works, I like the rounded notch because it seems to allow the prong to bend over the stone gently. No matter what size stones are being set, it is always good practice to set them upside down on the metal and measure the culet to culet distance. Email our studio coordinator Erica Stice at studio@halsteadbead.com. Gemstones add color, value, and interest to your jewelry designs. Now get out your luscious gemstone stash of beautiful colors and cuts and get started. When pressure is applied by pushing the setting against the stone, it snaps into the setting. This will cause the jaws to depress before you are prepared to close the prongs, at that point the pliers will open too wide to be used. You place the flat portion of the stone face down, then press the setting over it … Sorry, studio support is not available by phone. Of course, you could fabricate your own out of wire by soldering, filing and notch cutting; but, these pre-made findings can save you a lot of time when you are using calibrated stone sizes in your work. Not too deep, because otherwise the claw will be weakened. I first cut one side of the claw so that a notch forms. There are many ways to set a round stone in a simple 4 prong setting, I am going to show you the most.In this example I will be setting diamond in a silver ring. The flat bottom of the cab simply rests on the bottom of the setting and the prongs are tightened over the curved top surface. With a flat file, gently file across all four prongs at once. This is done by a stone being set into a collet with a large wall. Note:When tightening the tips, work in a cross pattern. Start with the easiest gems to set: thin cut, but not too small, round stones like diamond and cubic zirconia. 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